Thursday, April 3, 2003

Phakding

I awoke feeling excited, but a little overwhelmed also. I was going to be going out on my own for two weeks in the Khumbu. I was 22 years old (barely) and I was going to be out on my own half a world away from home. Not only that, but doing something that was going to be difficult, challenging, and with the unpredictability of altitude sickness, maybe not even entirely possible. But regardless, I was up early in the morning and said goodbye to Uncle Jim and Cousin Alanna, thanked Mr. Paudell, and was taking a taxi to the airport. I had a morning flight from Kathmandu into Lukla. Luckily, my dad had just been to the Khumbu three years previously, so he left me his travel book and his notes for places to stay. Without that, I could be in way over my head. He also warned me that the Lukla Airport was crazy. I could worry about that later. As of now, Mr. Paudell hooked me up with a $90 flight into the Khumbu. I had a window seat and was able to look out a small window in a smaller plane to see the most amazing mountains in the world. I was so lucky to be able to see these sights. As the short flight was coming to an end, I could see the runway coming up on us. It was a very short landing strip that was also angled uphill. It did not leave the pilot much room for error as they had to hit the landing strip and then quickly apply the breaks while letting the uphill help stop the plane. Everything went fine and soon I was departing to the baggage claim. I then was out on my own. Dad's first advice was to find a teahouse to stay in on the way back that would keep some of my stuff. I found a place that was more than happy to do that.
I dropped off my extra bag and a small bit of gear and clothes and then I hit the trail. I did not have far to go on this first day, just about 3 miles to the small village of Phakding. I made sure while I was hiking to keep a good pace and try to hike faster than the other trekkers and also even the porters who were carrying other people's stuff. These kids of anywhere from 12-15, would make money by hauling huge loads (50+ pounds) up the mountainsides for rich foreigners. I was definitely in the minority by not paying for a porter or having a guide. It was just me on my own. These porters were amazing though, as they would just do all this stuff with only a pair of flip flops on their feet. Phakding was there before I knew it and soon it was only early afternoon and I was checking into the first teahouse that was on my dad's list. The Sherpani was very nice and gave me an excellent room. I got my self situated in the room and then went down to the big room to hang out. It was empty. So empty and lonely. Finally I just went and walked around town. I crossed a crazy bridge that went over the Dudh Kosi,
 One of many that I was crossing in these first few miles of trekking. I wandered around on some local trails and found people working in the fields. Phakding was not officially in the Everest region and so this was still a more rural village where there were also terraced fields and people struggling to get by each day. I could see how their would be higher mountains eventually in this valley, but as of right now Phakding was not high on my list of lovely places because I wanted to see the Himalayas and I was stuck in this town alone, at least that is how it felt. When I went back to my teahouse it stayed lonely for a long time. Finally, in the evening a German trekker showed up. He had been hiking up from the beginning of the trail in the lower elevations and thus did not get a flight into Lukla. I talked his ear off and I could tell that he was not in need of company as much as I was. I was so happy for the company though and he and I were able to stay up hanging out for a while. I turned in rather early though as the conversation and my book "Sometimes a Great Notion" were not entirely appealing to me for long. I was ready for tomorrow anyway as I would have to hike up to Namche where all the action would be.

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