Annapurna Region

I awoke early to take a taxi to a bus stop. Uncle Jim and I were going to take a bus to Pokhara where we would transfer to a taxi that would take us to the start of a trail at Phedi to a town called Dhampus. We met our guide for the trip Norbu Lama at the bus station. Mr. Pawdell and Norbu secured a bus and soon we were on our way out of Kathmandu. The drive through the city was long but soon we were out of the city and getting to see the green terraced fields for the first time. The roads were narrow and the vehicles large. There were no dividing lines, so vehicles honked as they went around blind corners. Still there were always close calls as it seemed that it would be easy to give high fives to people in the other buses. People got on and off the bus as we went along the road. Jim and I were just enjoying the ride. My cousin Alanna talked of riding on the roof of the bus. I was not even thinking about that as I enjoyed the view with huge hills and rivers below us. Stopping along the way, we were to get lunch. The only choise was Dal Bhat. I personally had enough, but I tried my best to scarf it down. Some coconut cookies hit the spot, too but I was quickly learning that no one travels to Nepal for the food. Back on the bus and by early afternoon, we arrived in the second largest city in Nepal. From there Norbu procured a taxi and eventually we were going up a long river valley to the start of a trail. We were dropped off there and we felt like we were definitely on our own. I was feeling a bit weird about the guide, but there was no way we would have found this place without him. Norbu was awesome too. A great smile and a wonderful laugh. He was getting on in years, probably in his mid-forties. He had been guiding for a long time, but wasted no time in asking my uncle to get him a job in the states. Jim did not put much thought to it, because I am sure he would be happier in Nepal even though he was not making much money. The trail went steeply uphill along a rocky path. Uncle Jim was making slow steady progress behind Norbu and I as we hiked ahead. It felt good to be putting my foot to the ground and breath some high altitude air. The forested path soon gave way to a high plateau. Here we found houses with terraced farms to tend. The path wound the way through these areas that were obviously only accessed by foot. It was a first for me to think of towns not connected by any kind of road. The people were so friendly and would look up from their daily tasks to give us a kind Namaste. We wandered through villages with kids playing soccer on barren fields without any sign of grass. We finally arrived at our teahouse that would be our bed for the night. It was very dark and rustic. I was excited for a meal. We put our stuff up in our rooms and went down to the main area to order a dinner. The menu was less than exciting as I ordered momos. I knew they were dumplings but not much more. They were awful. Filled with what looked like kelp, I choked them down and felt not fulfilled at all. One thing that Uncle Jim and I noticed was that Norbu was not allowed to eat with us. This made us feel a little bit odd. We were becoming companions, yet the caste system did not allow for him to eat until we were finished. We encouraged him to eat with us, but he ate after we were done. We spent a little time reading, but with not much else to do in the evening we quickly found our way to a deep sleep. When we awoke in the morning, Uncle Jim was not feeling well. It was probably the food as breakfast was just as unappetizing as dinner. I wandered outside afterward to see the peaks rising up for the first time. The most dramatic was Machapuchare. Its steep summit with a few clouds waking up to the morning light. Looking off to its left, there was the 8000m peak that the region was named for. This was Annapurna South which I still am not sure how it fit with the normal Annapurna. I looked forward to the day that was ahead of us. Jim was not feeling well unfortunately, so it was putting a cramp in our plans. When we got to the next little village, Jim said that was it and he decided to stay there for the day. Hanging around town was completely out of the question for me. I left Norbu and Jim to spend the day out hiking on my own. I was now able to just move. The path led me past villages and fields until I finally seemed to make it away from the lowlands and into something more mountainous. I could see across the valley to terraced fields. Along the way, I got food from people selling along the trail. I bought a candy bar from a sweet lady which that little bit must have helped their family. Also a woman sold me some mini bananas for about a quarter.They were good too. Everyone was so sweet as they were incredibly poor, yet so happy. There were beautiful little girls running around while their mother would look up and say namaste. I got to a town on the edge of a big valley. I stopped here at a teahouse with a beautiful view and had a very good lunch. I had very good soup and an extremely nice lady to wait upon me. I had the place to myself. I loved it because it was not the commercialism of the U.S. Just a warm meal and a nice host. I went back down the trail I came from. I ran into the same woman who sold me the candy bar. Her husband was there now and I talked with them with the limited English they had. They let me take their picture and I was on my way. I got back to have dinner with my uncle. He was feeling a bit better, but had a rough day. I felt bad for him not being able to appreciate the mountainous terrain. That evening, I enjoyed the views of the peaks. Norbu took my picture, a little slanted, with both peaks in the background. Meanwhile, Jim was off somewhere else being harassed by a Maoist. Jim was trying to get away while this guy filled him with doctrine. Luckily, he was not more than preached to as we had heard many stories of Americans being robbed. Americans were definitely targeted. I was nervous about it because I only brought a limited amount of funds. Sitting around the fire that night, we talked with other trekking groups. The leader was sort of a jerk, but he actually knew the owner of the Himalayan Restaurant in the U District in Seattle. He asked me if I knew A.C. Sherpa and I did because of my friend Larson. He said something about him owing him money or something, but I thought he was a bit of a cocky jerk anyway, so I didn’t pay much attention. We had another blissful night of sleep before another early morning. The food was better at this guesthouse, but we were to go down the hill today. Along the way, Jim was asked for money. He did give some kids some candy, but he knew that giving here would just mean more demands. We made it to our bus stop where we caught the bus to Pokhara. Norbu found us a place to stay there and then it was off to a simple lunch. I am not sure what I ate other than some suspicious tomatoes. I tried to stay away from a lot of foods because they could be unclean, but I was hungry. Then I wandered around the city on my own, while Jim went and had a beer. I went down to the big lake. There were so many Israelis here, it was ridiculous. I did not know what to do in the city again, but found Jim having a beer. I hung with him for a bit and then went back to the room. I never made it back out. I wasn’t feeling well, so I laid down. I was soon going back and forth to the bathroom with a disgusting mess coming out both ends. I had bad food poisoning and spent a rough night laying down and running to the bathroom. I did not get more than a short period of rest that night. I was hoping that I would come through the night feeling better because we had a long bus ride the next day. I was really hoping I could make it.