Clear Lake in the Fall

This is a hike we have done as a family many times, but we can't find another one that is easier to see such nice sights so quickly. The issue is that many others have discovered this same thing, so we are often sharing the trail with many people. This day was no different because when we drove up in the early afternoon to the Clear Lake trailhead, there was not a parking spot to be found. There were cars parked in all sorts of odd places. Luckily, being a local in the area, I knew exactly where to park. I drove up about a half mile up the road and there was a dirt road that intersected the McKenzie River Trail. I parked the car and was the only one there. We continued downstream until we ran into the trail around Clear Lake. 

Even though the parking lot was very busy, the trail did not quite seem as busy. There were other things than hiking for people to do, like get out onto the lake in their boats. The real draw were the fall colors that were out in full force everywhere. We enjoyed them a lot especially Jacqueline. We walked south to start and that took us to the parking lot. After a short bathroom stop, we continued down the trail. This was a nice leisurely day for the runners in the family who could use a day off of running. We just walked which was a piece of cake. The trail took us by the outlet where we crossed over the start of the McKenzie River. Then we were back in the trees heading north. 

Here the trail got a little rough in places, but eventually it sent us out into the lava flow that made the lake. A couple of thousand years ago, Sand Mountain which is a volcano, erupted causing molten rock to come down and block up the lake. It is so recent, that you can still see stumps and trees in the lake from when it was formed. The trail by the lava flow is in nice shape, though, because this section is paved. This is also one of the more picturesque spots because you can really see the greens of the lake appearing. Then the trail goes back into the woods and takes you right by the Great Spring. Here, you can see where the water rushes out of the large aquifer that is underneath the Oregon Central Cascades. 

This is really what formed the McKenzie River as the volcanoes in central Oregon are so porous with their soil that most of the snow melt just goes underground rushing out in these large rivers. The Great Spring looks so cold and so clear that the waters of Clear Lake are some of the clearest in the world. The colors all around the Great Spring were really nice too. The trail continues on from here crossing a couple of very nicely built bridges before running into the McKenzie River trail again. We headed back up the trail the way we came to our car, still the only one parked on this dirt road. It was a very comfortable and easy 5-6 mile loop on a Saturday in October to see beautiful colors and have a great day as a family getting outside.



 

South Olallie Trail

 Well I had now been off the PCT for 6 weeks, so it was finally time to go for a hike again. I filled my days with hanging out with the family, going for runs, working around the house, coaching cross country, and of course teaching math. I was well in it as the school year already felt long and it was only a few weeks in. I had a successful run at the Walterville Waddle where I placed first in my age group and ran a personal best 19:36 5K. Conrad was right behind me by only 8 seconds. I got a bunch of cookies as a prize. Most of the time was taken up with coaching cross country, though, as weekends included races in which my kids were doing really well. Still, the need to get out on the trail existed and this day I was going to make sure that I got a good hike in. Since last spring, I had been interested in the Olallie Trail. 

I had hiked every part of the trail except for the lower section. I was going to remedy that today. My drive took me out to the Aufderheide Rd. This road wound through the wilderness to numerous trailheads. I had stumbled on the southern part of the Olallie Trail about a year and a half earlier. This was spring, so I hiked just about as far as I could before snow slowed me down. I turned around at the snow about 3 miles in, but this day I was determined to not let anything stop me. Besides, it was fall and all that could really get in my way were downed trees. The trail starts out at the end of a dirt road. I parked at the trailhead and went on my way. The first little bit is flat and then it charges up the ridge. 

There are numerous switchbacks climbing several thousand feet. This trail is about 40 miles long if you did the entire thing in one day. I have never done that. Instead, I have done it in chunks, first hiking the northern part over 10 years ago into the snow. That part takes you past the O'Leary Trail, then up past Horsepasture Mountain. Conrad and I hiked the section from the Saddle Trail to the 1993 road before it heads to Olallie Mountain and then down to Bear Flat. Today I was planning to hike the southern section from the Olallie Trailhead to Bear Flat. Bear Flat was where I headed off for a loop hike to French Pete once and found myself bushwhacking most of it. All and all I guess you could say that this trail and I had some history.

Today, though, I was determined to finish it and explore other trail possibilities that existed there. The first thing I had to was get farther than I traveled previously. That was done after crossing a creek only about 3 miles into the trail. The trail continued uphill until leveling out right where the trail met the Rebel Creek trail. This trail was really suspect to me and even though there was a sign, I imagined that it was probably a trail to nowhere. I hiked Rebel Creek 10+ years ago when it was in better shape than it is now, and I never saw this part of the trail even though there was likely a junction at some point. It wasn't for me today, so I continued on. The trail was now relatively flat and only a half a mile more brought me to another trail junction. 

This was the Wildcat Trail that would take me out to Wildcat Swamp and Bill Gott Spring. This hike was for another day and I continued on. The trail was not in great shape. It was relatively flat, though, and for the most part I could see how the trees had been cleared to get me through the woods. I felt like I was doing the trail a favor by hiking it so it did not cease to exist. There were times I had to climb over fallen logs, but for the most part, I was able to find my way. At one point, I crossed the headwaters of French Pete Creek. Here is was just a small trickle and there was a campsite nearby. It was a place to get water, but it was easily crossed without a footbridge. 

As I continued on, the trail took me past a swamp and out to an obvious clearing. Here was another trail, but it lacked a sign. This was the first evidence that the Forest Service had just decided to give up on some of these trails. This was a trail that could take me out to Corral Draw and up to Dillon Lake if I so chose. But, it was on the map, just lacked signage. This meant that it was likely out of service. This was sad because it closed off a huge section of wilderness. I would definitely hike it some day, though. Trail or no trail, I was determined to see what was out there. After this trail, it was only another half of a mile or so before I ran into the junction for the Bear Flat trail. When I had done my bushwhacking long hike here, there was a sign. 

Granted, that sign warned that the trail existed no more in sharpie, but the sign was still there. Now it was gone. Another trail bites the dust. The wilderness here used to be invaded by sheep in cattle. There used to be a drive right through these mountains. Now most of this is left to be reclaimed by the forest. Humans really had a way of fixing one problem by causing another. At this point, the wilderness may be a little bit too wild and it could use a little more trammeling. In any case, this was my turn around point. I though about the many opportunities that existed for me to not only explore further out here, but put my stamp on the forest by helping to clear some of the trail. 

There were so many sections where trail was a relative word. This forest, like so many other places, was being left to be overrun. I was going to have to put some time into making this place better at some point. The whole hike was about 18 miles, which took me about 7 hours to complete. Along the way I got to see junctions at 3 new trails that I had never explored all going deep into the heart of the wilderness. Two of those still had signs, which meant there was still hope. All of them needed to be explored. I was determined to really know this wilderness inside and out. This day had brought me one step closer to that and it had been a rewarding long hike to keep me in shape also. All and all, a great day out in the woods. 

PCT Day 27: Shaw Creek to Hart's Pass

 This seemed to be a theme, but I was up early. I was anticipating the last day on the trail. I waited for it to get light before I started packing up, but I was glad to see the sun. This was the last day, but I definitely had a goal. Two days earlier, I had dropped my quarter when taking a break for a snack. I was now very close to it and I was excited to see if I could find it at that point. It was not long before I encountered the tree and I looked right where I thought it would be. And there it was! I don't why this felt like such a win. This quarter had traveled the who length of the PCT with me and it was now back in my possession. This quarter was one that was left over from the Holiday Farm Fire when the only thing I was able to retrieve was a money box with my coin collection in there. So who knows how long this quarter had been with me. I was happy to see it back in my possession again.

The quarter did not necessarily motivate me to move quickly. I was really not focused on moving quickly. I guess 27 days of motivating myself to get up early and put in lots of miles had finally taken its toll. With only 11 miles to go and my dad waiting patiently for me, I really just worked hour by hour. I hiked for an hour and then I would give myself a long break. Then I would start moving slowly again. The weather was just ideal. Perfect blue skies, cool, but not cold conditions. This was truly the last hurrah as I climbed back up to Jim Pass, then Foggy Pass, and then Windy Pass. Along the way I saw people with that same excited look in their eye. They were nearly done also, but not as close as I. 

At Windy Pass, I could see the yurt and soon the lookout on top of Slate Peak came into view. I enjoyed the view out toward the North Cascades and Mt. Challenger was out in full glory. I was almost back, but I had to take one more pit stop before I made it there. Then it was only a few minutes and I was at the upper, upper trailhead where my dad was waiting for me. He thought that I might think this was where he was going to meet me so he brought a chair to wait for me. Then we hiked down the last mile or so to the true upper trailhead. It was pretty exciting to put my pack down and be done. There were some people there who had met a friend with some food and they offered me some. I took it and somebody even gave me a beer. I usually have an allergic reaction, but on this day, I was willing to risk it. It was worth it and it felt good to celebrate the accomplishment. We started the long drive back. 

It was down the Hart's Pass road which was long and steep in places, but a decent road that two wheel drive with a little bit of clearance was sufficient. Then it was a long drive after that. I couldn't believe just how warm it was down off the mountain in Mazama. Luckily, I had reached the car by 11 AM, because we had a 6 hour drive back. This drive included the chance to listen to the Mariners game which I missed doing. It also included a stop at Dick's Drive In for some much needed cheeseburgers, fries, and a strawberry shake. That hit the spot. Then we took the Edmonds ferry across to Kingston, where we then drove to my dad's house in Port Angeles. I met up with the family there. Everyone was so excited to see me. My wife really does not like me going on these long backpacking trips, but she still gives me the hero's welcome when I return. The kids were very excited for me and we all just could not stop from smiling. This had been a long journey and it was now over, but I felt very accomplished. Now on to tackle California?