Saturday, December 13, 2008

Honeymoon: Phase Six: Overland Track: Day 2

We awoke to a good steady rain. I looked around the tent to see if anything was wet on the inside. It was all dry as a bone and it made me happy that I picked up this tent before the trip. I dragged myself out of bed and put on all my rain gear. I got my stuff together and I got myself out of the tent. I left my beautiful, young wife to get ready in the tent while I braved the rain. After waiting for quite some time, I pried Jacqueline out of the tent so that I could pack it up since it needed to go at the bottom of the pack. The garbage bags that we bought to protect our gear and keep it dry were very flimsy and we did the best to keep the whole bag from ripping as we put our stuff inside.
 Finally we were packed up and ready to go, but Jacqueline was not in the mood for this kind of weather. We tried to keep our spirits up saying that we had been blessed so far on the trip with such great weather, that this was a situation that we should come to expect. The beginning of the trail from Lake Windermere was mostly boardwalk as we went through the steppe grass terrain. We came to some great views (if it would not have been raining) of the Forth Valley. The funny thing about it was that we could see the Old Pelion Hut across the valley, but seeing the size of the valley, we knew it was not going to be a short process. After that, the trail sent us into the trees. Here we were entering the rainforest terrain and for some reason, the boardwalk quit and the mud began. The difficulties in this terrain were not only slogging through the mud, but the exposed tree roots making walking slick and difficult. Jacqueline was fairly grumpy about all of this, but it kept up the adventurous part of the whole trip for me. It did not help her to see that we were being passed by some high school age students randomly throughout the day or that her boots were digging into the back of her heels so much that she was constantly in pain. The trail continued endlessly and so did the rain. There were creeks and gorges to check out, but mainly we slogged this section of the trail. Eventually after doing quite a bit of climbing, we began to descend. This lead us to the Old Pelion Hut and eventually to our final destination at the New Pelion Hut. It took us about 5 hours and on this day, the times posted were for the most part correct. We tried to locate a camp spot, but there did not seem to be any of the tent pads except for one right in the front already taken by another group. We settled for the hut on this night and honestly on a rainy day and night, it was a welcome relief. We took our shoes and socks off and I was surprised to see that I was bleeding rather profusely out of my foot. This was strange and the same thing had happened after our Hounslow Heath Track walk. It did not look to be a large cut, but it was very difficult to stop the bleeding. Later, I was to learn from a man from Sydney that the cause of this was that I had been bitten by a leech. When I thought about it later, I did remember the feel of something slimy going down my gaiter, but I just assumed it was water that had found its way in there. Once I finally got the bleeding to coagulate and we got our warm clothes on, we settled in for a day and evening of relaxation. We played a lot of card games and talked to other people in the Pelion Hut. Most of the folks were from Australia including a large school group. There was one guy, Sebastian who showed up late in the evening, who was from Germany, but almost everyone there seemed to be Australian. We occasionally went outside to see the wildlife as it was getting to be commonplace to see the wallabies and pademelons. We even saw another small marsupial, the quoll, hiding under some planks near the bathroom. The hut ended up being very nice for cooking, eating, and getting our stuff to be somewhat dry, but when it came time to sleep, it was not very private and I struggled with the snoring of someone who was not even in the same room as us. Still, it was nice to interact with others, as much of our trip was just Jacqueline and I, so it was fine to get a short break from that. We hoped as we could not tell from the inside, that when we awoke in the morning, the rain would have ceased and we would be blessed with another beautiful day.



Friday, December 12, 2008

Honeymoon: Phase Six: Overland Track: Day 1

The Overland Track is the much hyped week long backpacking trip from Cradle Valley to Lake St. Clair. On it, one travels through some of the more remote and beautiful areas of Tasmania. We got a good early start, which I was hoping for because a lot of people were probably making the trip up on a bus or some other form of transportation. There were a few people on the trail in the morning, but they were all day hikers who were staying at Cradle Valley. We knew that the trail was going to climb elevation quickly, but it was not too difficult to start out with as it was all boardwalk. We stopped to take a picture of Crater Falls that ran along the trail. Soon we were at the overlook of Crater Lake and Jacqueline was not happy about having to go up the steep rocky part with a full pack on. She handled it fine and we were quickly at Marion’s Lookout with great views of Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain. From there, the trail flattened out and it was much like the Hounslow Heath Track as we continued our trip on a high plateau. We eventually came to the Kitchen Hut, where we dropped our packs for a trip up Cradle Mountain. I was not too worried about this climb even though the mountain looked so steep, because there was a trail up it. Jacqueline and I started out just blazing up the trail, passing everyone as we went. The trail started to skirt a boulder field. Then it climbed steeply up a boulder field. Jacqueline was doing great, but we hit a wall literally. She could not see it but there were good holds and an easy spot to put her feet. I try not to push her to do anything she does not want to and she had enough at this point. So I left her sitting there and I continued up. I now moved very quickly without her to worry about. The climbing was great as it was mostly third class with some fourth class moves thrown in. I love mountain climbing and this reminded me why. It just felt great to be moving swiftly up this boulder ridden landscape. I wished that my wife could be there with me, but I am glad that she has limits and pays attention to them. Soon, I was on top and a German couple that were up there snapped a photo. The view was great as I could see in all directions where we came from and where we were going. I only spent enough time on top to take a picture, because I had to get back down to Jacqueline. When I came across the Canadian guy we had passed on the way up, he said to me, “Wow, you move like a mountain goat.” I felt pretty good about that. I made it back to Jacqueline and she was frustrated. She wished she could have made the top and beat herself up about it all the way down, through lunch, and as we continued on the Overland Track. The thought earlier was to possibly climb Barn Bluff also, but it was supposed to be more difficult than Cradle, so we decided against it. It would have been fun as it is an impressive landmark, but my desire to do it was not as great as it was for Cradle. The track continued with a lot of boardwalk. After the junction for Barn Bluff, it started dropping into what was called Waterfall Valley. I was expecting this dense forest with water all around us. We did not see one waterfall in Waterfall Valley. Instead it was wide open, but I could tell that when it rained the valley probably had a lot of waterfalls in it. This was where most people would spend the first night as it would have been a full day of hiking and there was a hut to crash in. We had not had our fill so we continued on past. The trail was still in such good shape and we knew that the Windermere hut was only 2.5 hrs away. We enjoyed all of the skinks that hung out on the boardwalk. These were small salamander looking lizards that seemed to hang there to soak up the sun. We came to a junction for Lake Will. We decided to take the hour roundtrip side track. It gave us some great views of the huge lake and Barn Bluff. I got to skip some rocks, too, which made me happy. We came back to where we dropped the packs off and were happy to see that the birds left them alone. From here on out, we were a bit tired and sore. Both of our feet were hurting and Jacqueline’s boots were really giving her pain as they were digging in to the back of her heels. We saw our only other fellow backpackers on the day, a father and son going just from Waterfall Valley to Lake Windermere. This part of the day seemed to drag on as we could see the lake, but the hut was all the way on the other side of it. We got to the hut, but we did not want to use it. Instead we put our tent on one of the many wooden platforms that they built for tents. I struggled with the devices meant as stakes to hold the tent down, but eventually figured it out. It gave us an easy surface to cook and get organized on, but I did not like the closeness it seemed to put us in proximity to others. On this night, it seemed no one was going to camp near us, besides the pademelons and wallabies, which was nice. We made ourselves some dinner, made preparations for tomorrow, played some card games, and wandered off to sleep. In the night we could hear the animals running on the platforms, which was fun. We could also hear the rain on the fly, which was an ominous sound for tomorrow. The tent did its job, but when the sun rose again, we would be slogging through the rain.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Honeymoon: Phase Five: Hanging out in Cradle Valley

After a scrumptious breakfast, we walked down to the Devonport Visitor Centre to catch the bus. It was a short bus ride, less than two hours, but it made us appreciate the rental car that was a very inexpensive way to travel through Tasmania. The bus dropped us off at the transit center. Here we were able to store our backpacks until one o’clock when they would allow us to check in for the Overland Track and get our room key for the Waldheim cabins. We took the shuttle bus to the Visitor Centre where we went on two short walks. 
One was along a boardwalk path that took us to a nice waterfall. The other was a boardwalk path that took us upstream along a path to the Cradle Mountain Lodge. I am sure that Jacqueline wished that we were staying at this place instead of the cabin, but for $250 a night, I did not think that it was worth it. So we had to take the shuttle back to the transit centre, pick up our Overland Track passes, then take the shuttle to the visitor centre, pick up our cabin key, take the shuttle to Ronny Creek, and walk to our cabin.
 It was an annoying process and I am not sure why they don’t just have everything in one place. The cabin was not very exciting and in a way was kind of dark and dreary. So we got our stuff together and went to head out to the trail. 
We had two choices, one was the Overland Track and one went the other way, so we took the other way. It lead us through boggy grassland and we talked to some folks who said they just saw a wombat, so we were hopeful. A path lead off to the Wombat Pond, so we took that. It was a lot of steps uphill, but no big deal for the two of us. Then we finally got a glimpse of a wombat wandering through the brush. We got to watch him for a bit and then we continued uphill to the Wombat Pond. It was a nice spot and we started to get great views of the lakes and the mountains which made Cradle Valley so beautiful. 
The trail continued uphill, so we took that. We both felt in good shape right now, so even though it was a lot of elevation gain, it was no big deal. It took us to the Overland Track and a view of Crater Lake. We got a small taste of what tomorrow would bring as we hiked the Overland Track for a bit. It took us up some steep stuff which Jacqueline was not too pumped to bring a full backpack up. We almost went to Marion’s Lookout, but took a trail to the left that lead down to Dove Lake instead. This was a steep one, but it was no big deal to my gorgeous wife and I. 
We made it down to the lake, which was very nice. We finally got a good view of Cradle Mountain and it got me excited to climb it tomorrow. I was just hoping that the weather would hold for us as we had been so blessed with great weather on this trip. We headed back to Waldheim from Dove Lake. We made ourselves some dinner and then went out for another hike. There was a track that warned us that it was unmaintained and about three hours. This sounded like a good trip for after dinner. Almost immediately after hitting the track, we spotted a wombat and this time we were able to get a good look at him. 
He just ambled along and we left him to it. We brought our gaiters on this trip as I figured it would be muddy and wet. We were not disappointed. The trail climbed slowly and the views back down the valley were incredible. It felt so comfortable being out there as in places it really looked like the Serengeti. We hit the “halfway” point which was the end of the Maryland Track and the start of the Hounslow Heath Track. This one was much different. Right away, the trail climbed steeply. It eventually popped us out on a beautiful ridge by a small pond. The views were just wonderful. It was not a dramatic landscape, but more of a rolling hill clear of large debris. We followed the wet ridge for quite some time. The walking was a little bit slower, but we were making good time. Soon, it shot us down through the forest where the going got much rougher. It was very muddy and wet now. The tree roots were exposed and it made things very slippery. There were lots of trees down and the branches were just hanging over the trail. We were starting to get nervous about the approaching night, but eventually it popped us out on this nicely graveled path. The difference between the two were so dramatic that when we looked at the trail we were on, it did not even look like a trail. There was nothing to do but go back to the cabin and get some sleep for the next day. The problem was that now we had all of this wet clothing and boots, so we cranked the heat up in the cabin. I knew this was a bad idea. We got our stuff dry, but it became so hot in the cabin that I could not sleep in my down sleeping bag. The pademelons and possums outside made us nervous to leave the door open unattended. Finally, it took me standing in front of the door for a good ten minutes until I was able to cool the place down enough to get a little bit of rest.