PCT Day 27: Shaw Creek to Hart's Pass

 This seemed to be a theme, but I was up early. I was anticipating the last day on the trail. I waited for it to get light before I started packing up, but I was glad to see the sun. This was the last day, but I definitely had a goal. Two days earlier, I had dropped my quarter when taking a break for a snack. I was now very close to it and I was excited to see if I could find it at that point. It was not long before I encountered the tree and I looked right where I thought it would be. And there it was! I don't why this felt like such a win. This quarter had traveled the who length of the PCT with me and it was now back in my possession. This quarter was one that was left over from the Holiday Farm Fire when the only thing I was able to retrieve was a money box with my coin collection in there. So who knows how long this quarter had been with me. I was happy to see it back in my possession again.

The quarter did not necessarily motivate me to move quickly. I was really not focused on moving quickly. I guess 27 days of motivating myself to get up early and put in lots of miles had finally taken its toll. With only 11 miles to go and my dad waiting patiently for me, I really just worked hour by hour. I hiked for an hour and then I would give myself a long break. Then I would start moving slowly again. The weather was just ideal. Perfect blue skies, cool, but not cold conditions. This was truly the last hurrah as I climbed back up to Jim Pass, then Foggy Pass, and then Windy Pass. Along the way I saw people with that same excited look in their eye. They were nearly done also, but not as close as I. 

At Windy Pass, I could see the yurt and soon the lookout on top of Slate Peak came into view. I enjoyed the view out toward the North Cascades and Mt. Challenger was out in full glory. I was almost back, but I had to take one more pit stop before I made it there. Then it was only a few minutes and I was at the upper, upper trailhead where my dad was waiting for me. He thought that I might think this was where he was going to meet me so he brought a chair to wait for me. Then we hiked down the last mile or so to the true upper trailhead. It was pretty exciting to put my pack down and be done. There were some people there who had met a friend with some food and they offered me some. I took it and somebody even gave me a beer. I usually have an allergic reaction, but on this day, I was willing to risk it. It was worth it and it felt good to celebrate the accomplishment. We started the long drive back. 

It was down the Hart's Pass road which was long and steep in places, but a decent road that two wheel drive with a little bit of clearance was sufficient. Then it was a long drive after that. I couldn't believe just how warm it was down off the mountain in Mazama. Luckily, I had reached the car by 11 AM, because we had a 6 hour drive back. This drive included the chance to listen to the Mariners game which I missed doing. It also included a stop at Dick's Drive In for some much needed cheeseburgers, fries, and a strawberry shake. That hit the spot. Then we took the Edmonds ferry across to Kingston, where we then drove to my dad's house in Port Angeles. I met up with the family there. Everyone was so excited to see me. My wife really does not like me going on these long backpacking trips, but she still gives me the hero's welcome when I return. The kids were very excited for me and we all just could not stop from smiling. This had been a long journey and it was now over, but I felt very accomplished. Now on to tackle California?

PCT Washington Day 26: Hopkins Lake to Shaw Creek

There was a lot of anxious anticipation for this day to begin. I was going to finish the Washington section of the PCT. All it took was about six miles of walking downhill with a very minimal pack. So when I was awake before the sun was up, this was not that surprising. I didn't have to pack too much as I just left my tent where it was and knew I would be back later. It was very strange to only be walking around with a small daypack, but I was happy to leave the big pack behind for a short little bit. As I went out to Hopkins Lake, I could see the moon just barely left in the sky after a night of brightly lighting it up. It was peaking out over the hills above the lake. The illumination from it was a brighter sight than the picture made it out to be. 

I went up the trail and felt like I was definitely one of the first people on it. It was pretty easy hiking. I was just moving along downhill. I ran into a group near Castle Pass. They were out on their own exploratory hike, but I got some congratulations from the group leader. Really, I was just cruising and each step felt like I was a little bit closer to achieving my goal. I could check my map on my watch, so it wasn't a big surprise when I started to see some signs come into view. Here was the Northern Terminus! I had finished the entire Washington section of the PCT! This feeling of excitement took over my whole body and I just felt accomplished. 

I was soaking it all in when all of a sudden I heard a dramatic scream. It was another hiker, one I had not met before, letting out a yell. He was middle aged and his clothes were in tatters. He had done the entire thing from Mexico to Canada. This was an even bigger accomplishment for him, but it did not take away from the accomplishment for me. We chatted quite a bit and we were able to take pictures of each other at the monument. The most interesting thing to me about being at the monument was that the border actually looked like a border. There were trees cut in a wide swath on both sides of Monument 78 up the entire hillside. This was surprising to me as I did not see the point of it. 

I lingered for a little while, but my victory lap had to begin at some point. So I bid my new friend adieu and I started up the trail knowing full well that he would catch me in a short amount of time. This truly was a victory lap as I started to see the other hikers going toward the monument on my way out. We congratulated each other and chatted for a little bit at each crossing. I enjoyed the light pack going uphill, but it only lasted so long. Eventually I made it back to the lake where I needed to pack up my entire tent. This took me about an hour which I used to also get a little bit of food. With the big pack back on, I was definitely going to be moving slower, but there was a sense of accomplishment to keep me moving. 

Now I got to go back up the Devil's Stairway. This was a little bit more challenging than going down, but also it just didn't matter anymore. It didn't matter how fast I moved. It didn't matter how far I got. All that mattered was that I accomplished the goal I set out to do. This truly was the victory lap. The route was unsurprising as it was the same trip I had taken the day before. I enjoyed the views along Lakeview Ridge. Woody Pass was amazing as I listened to the Tale of Two Cities while going down the switchbacks. I climbed back up to Rock Pass where I got to go down the easy, open meadow that took me downhill to Holman Pass. 

The views were just so striking all around. Usually the wilderness experience is about being out and absorbing as much from nature as your body will let you. Today, it was all about just hauling my body and my stuff back to that trailhead at Hart's Pass. I knew I would not make it out today, so I just kept going as far as I could. From Holman Pass, I went uphill and nearly made it to Shaw Creek, but I knew of a campsite before it. There was one other person camping there.

I asked him if there was water around. He said no, but I did not need it. I set up camp and was happy to get into bed as fast as I could. I knew I would not sleep that great because of the excitement of being done the following day, but I gave it my best shot. The campsite was nice. It was forested and pretty close to the trail. Occasionally there were people going by, but there were no bugs which was a bonus. I did not talk to the person next to me much because he did not seem too friendly, but we had our distance anyway. Overall it was a great last full day. I put in about 26 miles and would only have about 11 miles left to go on the following day.

PCT Washington Day 25: Meadows Camp to Hopkins Lake

 This was one of those days that I did not need extra motivation. I awoke earlier than normal, but I still waited until 5:30 AM before I got up. I slept rather well, though, not long enough which seemed to be the usual. I had a little extra food this morning. On top of my usual Clif Bar, I added in a breakfast of ramen. It was necessary calories because this was going to be a full day. I quickly got my gear packed up and then I got a ride from my dad to the Meadows Trailhead. It was just up the road and the place that I had exited the trail the day before. Here I would start the long journey toward the Canadian Border. I would not reach it today, but was likely to reach it early in the afternoon the following day. 

The trail started out mostly flat hugging the ridge of Hart's Pass. There were big views all around with mountains and deep valleys. I could see over to the North Cascades with its glaciers and dark, foreboding mountains. I could see Mt. Challenger which was honestly one of my favorite mountains. After about 2 miles of hiking, I came upon Hart's Pass proper. Here there was a small campsite attended to by other people who sounded as if they had just finished the PCT. I also saw my dad's car parked at this trailhead as his day of exploring started from here. In fact, there were a series of trailheads with no less than 3 within a mile and a half. One was an upper trailhead and the other was the trailhead for Slate Peak with a lookout on top. 

I passed all of these and I also passed quite a few people on this day. Everyone was in the mood to congratulate each other on a job well done. It was exciting to share the journey with other people and I was proud of the accomplishments that we had made. I also got to share the trail with a different species of squirrel than I was used to. Gone were the marmots who kept me company for so long and instead I had the company of ground squirrel that was very active and very noisy. It was fun to see a new animal this close to the border as animals have not been quite as abundant as I had been hoping to see on the trail. This was a day of passes. Hart's Pass was obviously the first. 

The next pass that I was heading toward was Buffalo Pass. There was no sign of buffalo in this area, but there were incredible views. The trail sort of climbed elevation, but was hardly noticeable. Here I was with a lighter than normal pack and of course, my numb foot, but I was so close to the end that nothing could stop me. I enjoyed the big sweeping views that included a strange looking yurt that was really close to the trail. I guess you could rent it, but it didn't look like an exciting spot for a rental. 

This put me at Windy Pass where I would take a break. I was soon to leave behind the big views of high mountain peaks and instead I would now be descending elevation into the Pasayten Wilderness. This is where I started to see people beginning to come out with the exalted look of finishing the trail upon their faces. It was such a different feeling as I would be coming back this same way in a few days. They had accomplished something that I was still toiling to accomplish. Their mood and mine were completely different though at the same place and time. The trail descended from Windy Pass going down switchbacks through a forested area. Here is where I saw the small fire that I thought would end my PCT journey prematurely. 

This was not currently burning, of course, but was the one on the map that I saw on Watch Duty before setting out from Stevens Pass. It was completely out and had only burned an area the size of a living room in a house. The trail climbed for a bit before descending to Foggy Pass. Then slightly ascending to the unremarkable Jim Pass. From here the trail said I would be on the Devil's Backbone. It was not nearly as dramatic as it sounded and the trail was rather unremarkable except that it did go through some burned out area that looked a little sad. I saw a group at this point and they reassured me that the entire trail was not like this and there were some pretty places ahead. That did not happen for some time, but I made notes of places that I could get water and camp on the way back. Shaw Creek seemed like a good spot for this.

This was about the spot that I decided to take a break. I grabbed some food on a log that allowed my back to lean up against a tree. I thought nothing of it until I had gone for a few miles past. I checked my pocket and my quarter was gone. I had used the same quarter the entire time to open my bear canister and now it was lost. I had another one in my pack, so I wasn't completely at a loss, but I had carried that quarter the entire time. It felt like my lucky quarter. I thought about where I lost it and I knew it had to be when I leaned back on that tree. I tried to make a mental note to get it back when I returned. The trail continued to descend until I was in the deep dark woods around Holman Pass. Here was the intersection with the Pacific Northwest Trail. I knew very little about this trail, but I saw that there was a trail crew working out here. They had a base camp set up right at the intersection with a sign that told us that they had run out of fuel. They asked for any extra canisters to burn fuel. I looked at the table where they were asking for them and there seemed to be a plethora of different canisters waiting for them. I decided to keep my fuel. From Holman Pass, the trail climbed. Along the way was the last reliable water for 9.3 miles which was likely where I would camp. 

Water really had not been an issue and it continued to be that way. I never once seemed to be wanting for water. The trail continued to climb and as it did, the views became more and more remarkable. There were large mountains all around me with big sweeping views. I was seeing all sorts of people as I climbed uphill through switchbacks in large grassy meadows. I was even passing a few people on my way up to Rock Pass. On Rock Pass, there was a wide shelf and a big valley below me. This was the first point where it felt real that the journey would be ending soon. I could see so far that I was sure I was looking into Canada. I went down off of Rock Pass and the trail switchbacked against the mountain side. 

Here I passed a couple who I spoke with for longer than usual. They were very friendly and they would be camping at Woody Pass. This was my original thought, but as I looked at it, I knew that I wanted to get a little bit closer. It was late afternoon, but there was still time to move. Plus, I had no guaranteed access to water and it was hot. I decided to keep moving and it was a lot of work to climb up to Woody Pass. Luckily, I was listening to a Tale of Two Cities and the dialogue kept me entertained as I pushed through the hot sun toward the pass. This was an incredibly scenic spot and one that I will remember for a long time because of the peaks and scree flows around. 

Once I made it up to Woody Pass, it was smooth sailing from here. I was on Lakeview Ridge would take me to the highest point on the PCT in Washington state at 7126 feet. It really did not feel that way, though, as I was encountering the people finishing their treks and taking in their energy. I saw some people looking out into the distance near Woody Pass and you can almost feel them contemplate their future about what was next. As I continued to hike, I ran into a deer which was a rare event being one of only a few that I had ran across on the whole trail. The trail continued to climb until I was at the highest point. There was no sign marking this event and for me the story of the French aristocracy controlling the peasants was what I will remember.

From this high point, though, the trail began a steep descent. This high point would be my last uphill of the day. From here, it was down the Devil's Stairway to Hopkins Lake. The Devil's stairway was a very dramatic name for a bunch of switchbacks. Yes, there was a little bit of exposure, but not much. There was an incredible view of Hopkins Lake and it looked like just what I was hoping for. I could take a dip and then sleep soundly before beginning the last of my journey tomorrow. I dropped elevation until I saw a side trail coming in. This was probably a very popular campsite as it was one of the last water spots on the entire trail before the border. I was a little late getting into camp, so I assumed I might have a hard time finding a spot.

I was right. It seemed like everywhere there was a group. I finally found a nice spot on an open meadow that was mildly impacted. It became my home for the night. It was a quiet spot and there were not many people wandering around anyway. I had put in 28 miles to get here which was likely my longest day on the trail in Washington. I was hoping to finish it off with a dip in the lake, but when I tried, I could not find a way to get in the lake with my sore and numb foot that was not walking over painful rocks. I decided not to risk it. Besides, it was pretty chilly by this point and I decided instead to just do a quick rinse of the legs. I had my dinner and settled in for the last night heading north on the PCT in Washington.